About Don & Nancy's Journey

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Don & Nancy's Journey

Background

Our journey started four years ago when we learned about the Clergy Renewal Grant Program of the Lilly Endowment. We began dreaming of how this program might be able to provide the parish and us with a renewed life and vision. And slowly over the time required to develop, refine and submit three applications we were able to focus on the labyrinth as the image - it involves travel, and finding God at the center.

Why this image? Don graduated from seminary in 1970, a time when there was a great deal of emphasis on social activism and not a great deal about spirituality and spiritual practices. A study leave where we could engage in study and living several different emphases in spirituality, and try out spiritual practices seemed a means of experiencing the spiritual practices for finding God at the center. Our love of trains and nature provide us with other ways to make our heart sing as we travel to the center and return. Staying at retreat centers and dialogue with spiritual directors about Francsican., Benedictine, Celtic and Native American spirituality will help us learn the language and refine our understanding of which practices work best for us; and might work in parish life as well.

It was a great gift to receive the letter informing us that out of over 1000 applications received by Lilly we were one of 130 that had been funded. The parishes, through a planning task group, have wholeheartedly joined us in making preparations for the journey that we are making and for the journey that the congregations will make during our absence.

July 1-27:

July is being spent attending to details in order to be ready to leave. There are lists and more lists, small and medium sized tasks and concerns. Memos and meetings, and OH YES, Don't forget that Nancy has her comprehensive exams at Notre Dame University. While Don has meetings, memos, more meetings, packing and last minutes details to attend to.

Godzilla the suitcasesSuitcases have been purchased, clothing acquired, camera readied, while our backpacks for camera, computers, knitting and books are at the ready. And there is a BIG pile of things we would like to take  - which is much larger than what we will actually be able to take.

On July 27th we bid the congregations farewell. On the 30th we leave on the first leg of our journey.

 

 

 

August 3, 2008

We arrived in Japer last night. Due to freight congestion on the rail line and a signal problem the first night we were late. VIA rail like Amtrak does not own the rails it travels over and is at the mercy of the host railroad and freight has priority. BUT the 3 days were wonderful, relaxing, a significant break for both for us. The meals were great and too bountiful.

 

This has heightened our love of train travel. To see the country you are traveling through. To be able to walk around and meet people and have conversations over meals in the dining car beats other transportation.

 

Don saw a black bear outside of Sudbury, we saw Loons and other waterfowl, in Ontario Nancy saw a moose in Saskatchewan, and Big Horn Sheep in Jasper – and all along the rail road right of way.

 

To see the change from lake country of Ontario, to the prairie, to the foothills of the Rockies was wonderful. And to see sunrise, and sunset and the stars at night was breathtaking.

 

Coming through a short tunnel into the Jasper National Park last night we were awed by the beauty and grandeur of the Rockies. Today going from Jasper top Banff along the Ice Field Parkway was wondrous; seeing these mountains with snow on the peaks. Walking on the glacier at the Columbia Ice Field; seeing a mother bear and her cub foraging near the road were bits of seeing the hand of God around us.

 

We have also become aware of just how tired we are and have decided not to push too hard or begin too much of our serious study until we have taken the opportunity to rest a bit. Tuesday we continue our journey to Vancouver through the Canadian Rockies and are looking forward to seeing more of this beautiful part of the country.

For More Pictures please check out Don & Nancy's Photo Gallery 7/27 to 8/2

August 5, 2008

 

Awoke early, packed, and we were picked up by bus to go to the Banff Train station. The train arrived at 8:45am from Calgary. A striking train outfitted in white and ending with two two-level dining/observation car for the Gold Leaf passengers. Red Leaf passengers ride in former Canadian National coaches (single level). Shortly after the train departed we were called downstairs to the dining car for breakfast. We were seated with an older couple from Chicago, Evelyn and George. Riding in the observation/dome car later was great. Get to see lots of things. On the first “floor” is the dining room and at the back a small vestibule from which to view the ride and take pictures.

 

The day was filled with changing scenery, courteous and attentive staff, food, photo opportunities, refreshments, and more food. Track work caused delays again during the day. But the scenery made the day a wondrous adventure watching the change from the Rockies into the semi arid region near Kamloops where we spent the night.  Part of the time was spent passing a major lake where there were eagles and osprey “fishing.” One of the activities in the observation car was spotting wild life and calling out where to see it. Don pointed out a bald eagle and an osprey in a dead tree holding a fish it had caught and which it was about to offer to its mate and the young in the nest.

 

When we arrived in Kamloops it was after 8:30pm (an hour late).  Kamloops is a semi-arid region with lots of cattle and farming with irrigation provided by the waters of the major river running through it. The green spaces are in contrast to the arid hills and mountain surrounding it. We stayed in the South Thompson Inn overlooking the River about 20 minutes out of Kamloops.

 

Once got to the motel, we had a quick late dinner, laid out our clothes and went to sleep.

 

 

 

 

 

August 6, 2008

 

We were up early to pack and catch the bus to train at 7:05.

 

In day light we saw that the hotel where we stayed had horses and several llamas. Everywhere there were irrigation devices allowing the growing of grasses and alfalfa.  The animals’ pastures were irrigated, too!

 

The busses were very well organized and dropped us off by our rail car. After the train left, we again had breakfast as we traveled. We continued along semi-arid desert, along Thompson River. Again we saw eagles and osprey. We also saw First Nations people (Native Americans) setting up camps along the river to catch and dry salmon as part of the annual salmon run to the spawning ground.

 

We left the CP tracks are traveling on the CN tracks. There are two train tracks: CN & CP. By virtue of a 2000 agreement they now share tracks. The CN is westbound, CP is east bound. And it benefits both railroads.

 

We watched the land begin to change – into the Cascade Mountains, which are rainforest. We follow the scenic Fraser River. At Cisco crossing there are double bridges as the tracks change sides of the river. The reason is simple that CP was built first, had their choice of the best route on the side of the Thompson and Fraser rivers.  CN came later and had to deal with what was left - the rougher side.

 

We saw avalanche barriers and sheds, and trip wires which notify the railroad of avalanches so they can send a crew to clear the tracks. 

 

The scenery was magnificent – different vistas at the end of each curve.  We took hundreds of photos.  Needless to say, we both enjoyed being in the dome car.

 

We passed a herd of bison which are being raised as a food source – our last animal sighting before Vancouver. Getting into the city we were quickly assigned a bus and taken to our hotel – down near the water.  After checking into our hotel room, we phoned Joe (16 hours ahead) and got the scoop on his accident.  He’ll be able to return to work in three weeks, and will be fully healed in 2 months.  He had several visitors while he was in the hospital (including some teachers whose names he didn’t know – just their faces, and some of the secretarial staff, as well as his girlfriend).  We are grateful that he has such a nice support system, as well as good insurance.  Additionally, his three weeks off are special sick time and not vacation.

 

Went out for a walk and found a small Italian restaurant where we had dinner.

 

The Rocky Mountaineer folk will be picking us up for our train to Whittier tomorrow morning at 7:45 so we will make it an early shower and to bed.

 

August 7, 2008

 

Morning seemed to come early with our 7 am wake up call. We were picked up from the hotel and taken across the Lion’s Gate bridge (which resembles the Golden Gate as it was designed by the same architect) over to North Vancouver. We passed Stanley Park, an urban park that is larger than Central Park in New York City.

 

Arriving at the train we again marveled at their organization and attention to detail. We were quickly boarded and on our way. They began, as had the ride on the Rocky Mountaineer, with a toast. (Don has decided he could get used to starting his day with a Mimosa on board a train.)

 

We were soon skirting a fjord (glacially formed bay) the southernmost one in BC, (and the only one we have ever seen). We had wondered if this trip would be memorable having just spent 2 days on the Rocky Mountaineer. We need not have worried.  Emerging from Horseshoe Tunnel we saw the beauty of the inlet framed by the mountains.

 

As soon as breakfast service was finished Don and Nancy were out on the heritage Observation Car. The car is too small (having an enclosed center section and two open end sections) for the number of people wanting to be there to take pictures.  But persistence paid off and Don was soon ensconced in the corner on the “right” side (actually the left) for the best pictures.  Later a staff member observing the number of pictures he was taking and the serious lens on the camera concluded Don was a professional and told us to stay put and don’t give up the location as the best pictures were coming up on that side.  And she was right.

 

The train stopped at a CN facility and our train crew and a CN crew conferred at the rear truck of the Observation Car. It seems there was a noise they wanted to check out. Instead of being a major problem it was only a loose bolt which meant we could proceed.

 

We were soon passing by the Cheakamus Canyon and then slowly went over a trestle (at what they call “Kodak speed” for a photo roll-by. It was breathtaking. The glacially colored water tumbling through the narrow gorge over boulders and rocks was gorgeous in the morning light.

 

The mountains were snow peaked, and we spotted the ends of glaciers. Very soon we were at Whistler. In 2010 Vancouver and Whistler will host the Winter Olympics with the Alpine and Nordic events being held around Whistler. So there is a lot of pride, excitement and construction.

 

We had lunch in the outdoor pub atmosphere.  We walked around Whistler, and agreed that while we loved the ride we did not like Whistler.

 

Coming in to Whistler we had passed through “Function Junction.”  That was on the outskirts of Whistler and our car attendant told us that all of the functions and things a tourist would not want to see had been located there (such as sewage treatment, land fill, staff housing, warehousing, etc.).  So the town is picture perfect for the tourist. Its focus is on getting people to spend money on motel, sports, food and fashion. Needless to say we were happy to get back in the bus and head for the train back to Vancouver.

 

Don has been having some intermittent back pain so Don stayed in his seat most of the way home and Nancy became the official photographer. At 4pm we were served a High Tea – complete with watercress & cucumber, salmon and ham sandwiches; scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam, and lemon tarts with chocolate covered strawberries – and oh yes, tea. It was served at our seats on a tray covered in a white napkin to give a sense of elegance.

 

Coming back to Vancouver we saw the site of the recent rock fall that shut down the road and the rail line to Whistler a week before. Tons of rock has fallen on the road. It is at a point where the road and train track are next to one another. It took 5 days of 24 hour work to clear the rock, blast away any unstable rock, put in rock bolts, retaining walls and new asphalt. It is amazing, having seen the pictures of the extent of the rockslide (in the Toronto newspaper) that a week later we were traveling the route. We were also told that the company that owned the train paid over $1 million to fly people stranded in Whistler to Vancouver (we met a group of them on the Rocky Mountaineer!).

 

We arrived back at North Vancouver Station and were quickly on the bus and back to the hotel. After a brief rest and downloading pictures on the computer we walked a blokc down to the park overlooking Coal Bay and had a picnic supper (we picked up a couple of pot pies top go at a grocery near the hotel).  After some people watching, we went back to the hotel and Don wrote up the day’s journal. As he was typing away (in his words) his “nimble fingers hit some series of keys that instead of typing a word deleted the text and shut down Word. So he took this as a sign, shut down the computer and soon after went to sleep.

 

August 8, 2007

 

We had a lazy morning.   Nancy didn’t get up till 7am (she’s been waking up between 4 and 5).  Don was up earlier rewriting yesterday’s journal after he lost it somehow the night before.

 

Caught up on some accounting work for the grant, found breakfast and hopped on a Trolley (actually a small bus shaped like an old trolley) Tour. Did a partial tour of the city and ended up in Stanley Park. This is a real gem of a park. 1000 acres of woods and flowers in the midst of the city – overlooking the harbor.   Some of the park has old growth, trees a 1000 years old.  We saw two eagle’s nests!  We got off at the Rose garden which also had some beautiful gardens.

 

We found the children’s section and rode their miniature train. A really nice little ride through the woods. In Dec of 2006 a severe windstorm came through and knocked down over 5000 trees in the park. Two years later they are still cleaning up from it and there are fallen trees still in evidence.

 

We stropped next at the aquarium which was wall to wall people. We saw sea lions, sea otters, a beluga whale and her calf, and a dolphin show in the outdoors viewing area. We visited an indoor exhibit of the aqua culture of the Vancouver area. It was surprising as BC is a temperate climate and there is a wider variety of species than even had imagined. We were glad to leave as it was a crush of people in a small space. We toured the rest of the park seeing the totem poles, and the prospect overlook of the harbor. Getting back on the Trolley tour we saw more of the city and ended up back at the hotel. After a brief rest we went out and in Joe’s honor had dinner in a Japanese restaurant.

 

August 9, 2008

 

Wake up call at 4:15 am so we could make our Amtrak bus at 5:30. Another border crossing experience - took an hour as 27 people had to unload all their baggage and drag it through the customs office. Another hour and a half got us to the King Street Station in Seattle. Our suitcases were a bit overweight so we got to the auxiliary bag folding bag out of the suitcase put the dirty clothes in it and the suitcases (now officially known as Godzilla and Bride of Godzilla) weighed in just under the 50 pound limit.

 

Made it to our roomette on the Superliner. It is a bit smaller than the roomettes in use east of Chicago. We realize that the Silver and Blue service of VIA rail spoiled us. The lavatory is down the hall. The dining room is nice but lacks the savoir fare of VIA. One nice thing is the parlor car. Originally build by the Budd Company in 1956 for the Santa Fe El Capitan. It was restored by Amtrak and provides an elegant space to enjoy the passing scenery.

 

We stopped in Portland Oregon. Enough time to get off the train and to walk a bit. Recognized the station from our last visit to Portland (where we found the Daylight steam engine (passing 4 no trespassing signs in the process) in 1997.

 

In talking with the Parlor Car attendant we found that the car is back on the train as an experiment. They have to find some ways to pay for it – but people really enjoy it. But one for such a large group of people is not enough. We went to the wine tasting and had some lovely conversation with people from Ireland and from California. Had dinner in the Parlor Car as well as that was an option. What a delight to have dinner and watch the sun set over Oregon.

 

But turning in was a bit of a challenge in a roomette. They are very small with no room to store our 3 carry on pieces. But somehow we managed. Slept off and on – Don spent time looking out the window at the stars and the passing scenery.

 

August 10, 2008

 

We were both awake by 5:30 and enjoyed watching the sunrise over fruit groves and farms in California. It is very dry again this summer and the threat of fires is extremely high. We got into Sacramento at 7 am and once we got luggage were settling in on a bench to wait until we could call to get our rental car. We had planned to get breakfast at the station but there were nothing but vending machines. Nancy noticed a sign and a wall plug – found a chair and had Don set up his computer. The sign indicated the station had a free wi-fi internet site. So she got us a password and Don uploaded photos and material for the webpages. He was happy as a clam to be able to charge his computer battery and work on these items.

 

The rental car people picked us up and we got the car we will be using for a couple of weeks. It has all manner of fancy stuff on it – better not get used to it. As late as it was we were not able to find a church in Sacramento as we had planned – but decided to do our worship when we get to the conference center. We found a restaurant outside of Sacramento and decided to get lunch.  We then drove up through the Sierra Nevada Mountains over the Donner Pass. We stopped at an overlook where we could see Donner Lake but also the long snowsheds up on the mountain to protect trains from the winter snows. But no trains were going through as best we could tell.

 

Then we crested the mountain and saw Lake Tahoe – beautiful is not strong enough to describe it. We seem to be wearing out the word breathtaking but that describes it best.  We drove around the lake through the tourist areas and finally arrived at the Zephyr Point Conference Center. It was founded in the 1020’s and had many cabins built in the 1930’s. We are staying in a conference center built in the 1980’s and were given a room facing the lake.

 

Just before sundown we went to what is called the Portal of Prayer a small rock bench built at the water’s edge and read Evening Prayer.

 

We begin our reading and writing in earnest tonight and tomorrow.  Being here again reinforces what a precious gift we have been given by the Lilly Foundation (and by the parish supporting and applying for this grant.)

 

For More Pictures please check out Don & Nancy's Photo Gallery 8/5 to 8/10

 

 

August 11-14

 

We have been in residence at Zephyr Point Conference Center on Lake Tahoe. This is a wonderful place 23 acres along the shore line of the lake. We have had a room in the conference center overlooking the lake. But we have not spent all that much time in our room. There are benches and walking paths and various places to walk (including 180 steps uphill to get to our car).

 

We have spent time reading, reflecting, doing some writing, and in study. It has been a quiet time and very good for the purpose of the study leave - to help us grow in our spiritual journey so we can model it and provide some hints and helps to others wishing to grow spiritually.

Prayer has become a center of our day. We will miss a small rock enclosure on the edge of the lake called the Portal of Prayer where we have done morning and evening prayers. A group meeting here has also been singing Taize chants we use at Trinity and other music playing during breakfast – which limited conversation but was an interesting idea and one we plan to use from time to time at home – instead of the accompaniment of NPR news.

 

We leave today and will drive to Yosemite, and then on to Oakland where we will attend Sunday Service at St. Gregory of Nyssa.  After this we will go to San Juan Bautista, CA to a Franciscan Retreat Center. From there we will take up residence at Grace Episcopal Cathedral in San Francisco and walk and pray their labyrinths.

 

As we have internet access we will continue (thanks to Fran Branco!!) to post our journals and reflection as well as links to some of our photos of the journey. These 2 weeks have sped by in many ways but we are aware of being in a different and less frenetic time and pace of life.

 

Don & Nancy

 

 

August 16, 2008

 

Photos from today can be found at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Woodhill295/SugarPineRRRailtown 

 

Today was a day of transitions. From semi arid mountains to the coast; from wilderness to city; from nature’s beauty to human creation and architecture.  From green to brown, from dried up reservoirs to great bodies of water.

 

After breakfast we drove out of Yosemite to Fish Camp (about 4 miles from the south entrance) to the Yosemite and Sugar Pines Railroad. We arrived early and discovered the steam train didn’t leave until 11 am. So Don watched as they got the engine ready and talked with the engineer. He was resplendent in railroad hat with all of the pins and patches from trains he has ridden.  

 

Just before they boarded the train, the fireman approached us and told Don “I suspect that you are someone who would appreciate a cab ride. Are you interested? You can do it going down or coming back.”  And he invited Nancy as well. So despite the fact Don has in his words “outgrown being cute or a child” there we were in the cab of a Shay Steam engine. It was delightful as they described how they had come to work for the railroad, and explained what the controls were and what they were doing.

 

We rode back in the open car enjoying the sound as the engine worked us up an 18% grade.

 

 

 

We grabbed a bit of lunch to eat in the car and headed out to Jamestown, CA. Following route 49 most of the way was quite an experience as well. The route is primarily 2 lanes and goes through the Sierra Nevada mountains and foothills.  It was quite scenic. There was one particular stretch which wound us around what we in the east would call a mountain but they refer to as a foothill. It had hairpin turns and looking out one could see the road in the distance winding up or down that we would soon be driving.  Neither Nancy nor Don has every been along a stretch of road like this one.  No guard rails.  Few signs warning of sharp curves.  No speed limit signs (save the ones suggesting 10 mph for a particularly sharp turn).  It was a feast for the eyes, and probably covered about 2000 feet of elevation.

 

 

The drought is obvious everywhere. From the brown of vegetation, to the signs warning of extreme fire danger to water levels. We passed over the Merced River (that flows through Yosemite) and it was obviously 30-50 feet blow normal. Passing by the Hetch Hetchy Dam and power station we observed the same thing – very low water levels.

 

We arrived at Jamestown which is home to the 1897 Railtown State park. The temperature was hovering around 100, Nancy tried to arrange a cab ride but didn’t have the right clothing (natural fibers only, and long sleeves and pants) and Don was not really sure he wanted to put on long paints, long shirt in 100 degree heat.

 

This is the home of the Sierra Railroad. Due to location they have frequently used for TV and the movies. During the ride the elderly car host (whose pin told us he had logged over 12,000 volunteer hours) enumerated a number of the films. The water tower enroute was the one used in the TV series Petticoat Junction.

 

Railtown is a state park but the operation seems to be strictly volunteer. The ride was short and slow but again the sound of the whistle and of the engine was its own music even in the oppressive heat. We were on the last train of the day so we stayed around to watch, of course, and to take pictures of them putting the engine on the turntable and running it into the roundhouse.

 

We drove off towards the coast through an agricultural region that was a study in contrast between the land that was irrigated and an ocean of green producing all manner of fruit and produce, or cattle and the un-irrigated land which was dry and brown. We stopped at a fruit stand and got Nancy some freshly picked cherries.  They were tasty.

 

This routing soon took us on to an interstate and then onto a 12 lane freeway headed for Oakland.  And just as we were getting used to all the traffic we found ourselves in our first bumper to bumper freeway traffic jam. There had been an accident involving several cars and with a rollover.

 

We arrived in Oakland, found the hotel, got some dinner.

 

 

August 17, 2008

 

Following breakfast in the hotel, we programmed the address of the church we wanted to visit into the GPS unit. Following its directions, we arrived early and safely at St Gregory of Nyssa in San Francisco.  We were greeted by a warm and wonderful woman who made sure we had nametags (which identified we were first time visitors by the pen color on the tag (red – returning visitors get back ink and members have a button with their name on it – and EVRYONE wears them!).  Several others greeted us as well.  We went incognito, never identifying ourselves as priest and musician/liturgist.

 

They gather in a large round space surrounding what eventually becomes the altar table. There is some warm up singing of hymns – all a capella – and then we move, singing into the space with chairs for the liturgy of the word (the congregation faces each other, with the leaders at both ends – all in the shape of a square). There is a great deal of singing and a very skilled choir – but no instruments are used, save for a small drum and sistrum for a couple of songs. The congregation has to sing if there is to be music. There are several lay participants, including the reader of the Gospel and the preacher. An excellent sermon – insightful and incisive.

 

The readings are not printed, only proclaimed.  After each, a set of prayer bowls (Tibetan?) are sounded, and there is a significant period of silence.  After the sermon, there is also silence, and then the invitation to comment on the sermon.  Three or four individuals connected the sermon contents to their current life situation.  None is overly long, each is respected and thanked.

 

The community there is as diverse as I have seen in terms of age, ethnicity, affectional preference, churchmanship and theological viewpoint. They have several deeply effective ministries – including a feeding program where the food is distributed during the pantry hours literally from the altar table to the people receiving it.

 

After the prayers the congregation dances (a tripeduum), which is a simple set of three steps forward, one step back – right foot forward, left foot forward, right foot forward, step back on left foot – while touching the right shoulder of the person in front of you) back to the space around the table which is vested for communion. The congregation sang the prayer of blessing over bread and wine and the cup was shared from one person to another.

 

The final hymn included a round dance while singing the hymn.  Don – the dancing school drop out – had a hard time with the dancing part but he knew the hymn and was able to sing that.  This dance was a grapevine of sorts (left foot over right, behind right, lift left knee, then lift right knee). 

 

They had a delightful coffee hour and we were able to chat with a few more people including the former rector whom Nancy had met at the North American Academy of Liturgy meeting.

 

We decided to go up the Pacific Coast to Muir Woods, a National Park with giant redwood trees. To get there we went over the Golden Gate Bridge. Nancy was delighted and took pictures.  Don drove and concentrated on staying the in the narrow lane while surrounded by California drivers many of whom wanted to cut into the space Don tried to leave between ours and the next car.  The fog (?) covered the tops of the bridge.  There were numerous people walking over the bridge (wondered if any were sons who had brought their fathers to fulfill a lifelong dream), including a unicyclist who appeared to be quite busy flinging his arms about to keep balanced, nearly hitting the people he was whizzing by. 

 

We found out that Muir Woods parking lots (electronic signs at the end of the bridge)  were full and so we took Route 1 along the coast. It turned out to be another twisty, curving road.  Think even more twisty than the twistiest road you have been on, and you are approaching what this road is like.  Very few guard rails, either! We stopped at Muir Beach so Nancy could touch the Pacific Ocean. We then stopped at several overlooks to take pictures. We continued to Stinson Beach looking for a restaurant. Found the restaurant but there was no parking. So we turned around and made our way back to Oakland and finally got lunch about 3:30pm.

 

Tonight we will spend a quiet night of reading, writing things like this journal and various reflections. Tomorrow we drive to San Juan Bautista to the Franciscan Retreat center where we will spend a few days. From there we will take up residence at Grace Cathedral in San Francisco. We do not expect to have internet access in either place so we may not be back in contact until the 24th.

 

 

August 18, 2008

 

We left Oakland today and headed south for San Juan Bautista. And it was only enroute as we saw signs for the El Camino Real (the Spanish Royal Road that led from Mexico City to the California Missions) that we realized that town of San Juan Bautista was the site of one of these missions.

 

We arrived at the St. Francis Retreat Center to discover that they were not expecting us. No one is sure whether the mistake is theirs or ours but we were welcomed warmly by the staff members and quickly a room was assigned and we were invited to lunch in the dining room.

 

The center is in flux since a 2006 fire destroyed the historic Ranch House which was the main building. They have several temporary buildings. Roger made sure we had a good room and gave us his phone number for emergencies.

 

We will be the only overnight guests midweek. Because of that fact we get lunch (as it is prepared for the staff members but the cooks do not come in for breakfast or dinner when there are no groups). Ed, the business manager, oriented us and made sure there are things available to us for breakfast so we do not have to go into town for breakfast. Maria, who was in the bookstore/gift shop, told us about the various options in town and recommended a specific Mexican restaurant.

 

We wrote out more postcards and did laundry this afternoon. Then we ventured into town. We easily found the Mission church which is now the parish for the community and then located the restaurant, Dona Esther. The founder of the restaurant named it for his grandmother. Being in California, and with the story of the founder naming the restaurant and having purchased a small booklet listing the California Missions (which included Santa Ines), brought memories to Nancy of her grandmother, Inez Stevens, who had lived in this state.

 

After a wonderful meal we walked around town found the mission church plaza and found the location where the El Camino Real went by the church, founded in 1797. Among the surprising things was the chickens we saw at several places in town freely roaming the streets.

 

Coming back to the Retreat Center we took a walk and came upon a doe and fawn; a bit later we encountered a flock of wild turkeys – we think there were about 30 of them. We watched them for a while. And continuing down the road we came to a place Ed had described where the cracks in the road shifted from paralleling the route of the road to cutting across it. That he told us is the San Andreas Fault line which runs though this area.

 

We found the chapel and Nancy played some hymns (she has missed playing). We had Compline and went back to the room to read and get ready to turn in.

 

 

August 19, 2008

 

Met a couple in the dining room at the retreat center at breakfast. Paul & Phyllis work for the Franciscan province developing volunteers for their retreat centers. We had an interesting conversation. They spoke of growing spiritually as a couple as well as individually. This was the first time Nancy or I had thought about that. And we are now thinking about both individual spirituality and how we develop spiritually as couple or as a family.

 

We took a hike up a trail in the hills. We saw deer and birds.

 

At lunch time we met Cindy with whom Don had corresponded by email to set this up. Discovered Don had not reconfirmed our stay after we changed the date. The staff is so friendly and helpful.  After lunch we met a cloistered Dominican nun there on a personal retreat in celebration of her 40th anniversary in the convent.

 

In the afternoon we went into San Juan Bautista and visited the Mission church. The missions were founded in the end of the 18th century by Spain to convert the natives and keep control of the area for Spain. The church had some historic displays in the old building. The church itself is now the parish church for the town but maintains the original style and has a significant Hispanic population. Nancy was taken with the painting/stenciling on the walls .

 

We went to the next town of Hollister and found St. Benedict’s Church where they have a labyrinth in the courtyard. We prayed the labyrinth – the center of which was a fountain - Reminding us of Jesus talking of living water welling up to eternal life.

 

 

August 20, 2008

 

We have arranged for Spiritual Direction with Roger who first greeted and welcomed us – and has been our guardian angel making sure things are going well in our time here. He is a caring, and interesting man to talk with. He is finishing his internship as a spiritual director. We have some questions about the Franciscan approach to spirituality. And we want to talk about the spirituality of us as a couple rather than just as individuals.

 

We met midmorning with Roger and he shared with us a DVD – a copy of which he gave to us for our work. In the end we spent far more time talking about our spirituality as a couple. He pointed out that we really do a great deal together that has a spiritual base even if not always formally designated as spiritual, and that we might not need to add more things to do but to intentionally understand, name and work at what we already do.

 

After lunch we took off for Pinnacles National Monument. This area is on the San Andreas’ Fault line. This area was a volcano millions of years ago and left lava tubes and other rock formations. We arrived mid-afternoon with the temperature in the high 80’s or low 90’s. Decided to take a trail to the overlook. It was a rocky path that went up 500 feet in elevation over the mile.

 

Nancy made it to the overlook – Don stopped a bit short – heat, feet and being out of shape took their toll. Nancy saw California condors soaring over the peaks. Don got a good picture of a woodpecker. And we both took lots of pictures of rocks and trees.

 

In some ways it is difficult to form these quick attachments to people such as the staff here at St Francis Retreat center – and then so quickly leave knowing we will probably not ever see them again. But we take some of the gifts they have given us with us – and we hope and pray that somehow we have left them a gift of a part ourselves as well.

 

 

August 21, 2008

 

Awakened and started to pack for the Cathedral. Decided to use 1 suitcase for San Francisco and leave 1 in the trunk. We had a conversation with two people on the maintenance staff as we were packing the car. Such lovely caring people. Why can’t church members exhibit this same genuine caring and hospitable welcome consistently?

 

Then letting the GPS be our guide we went to Felton and found the Big Tree and Roaring Camp Railroad. They run a small two truck oil burning Shay steam engine up into a redwood grove. It was a crowded train but a lovely ride. We had lunch there and then left for San Francisco.

 

Don was again in twisty-turny highway through the state redwood park until we reached Highway 1 along the coast. It was an impressive and beautiful ride.

 

We stopped to watch (briefly) young people on surfboards being pulled along by parasails.

 

There were expanses of beaches, and colonies of gulls and many, many pelicans on rocks and flying above the water.

 

We stopped at Pigeon Point Lighthouse and even saw a seal on the rocks.

 

As we got closer to San Francisco it began to get foggy along the coast so we went inland and took the freeway.

 

The last block of Taylor Street, before reaching Grace Cathedral at Taylor and California, was unbelievable. It looked like it was almost straight up and when we got to the top there was a motorcycle stopped ahead of us and a red light. It was a trick keeping enough gas to keep us from rolling backwards but not too much so we hit the motorcycle.

 

There is a parking garage under the Cathedral where we will store the car until Sunday when we drive back to Sacramento. We found the Cathedral Administrative Assistant, Ellen. She showed us to the apartment which is large and lovely. (It is where the Presiding Bishop stays when she is a guest of the Cathedral.)

 

We got here in time to attend the Thursday Evensong. The Men of the Cathedral Choir sang the service – music by Tallis and Harris. The congregation was able to sing a couple of hymns but the choir did the rest of the service. Don liked the way in which the Canon introduced the closing prayers, putting the selection in a context indicating a reason for the choice of prayer.

 

We walked to a small Italian restaurant. We then went “mountain climbing” up two blocks, to get some food for breakfast and perhaps lunch.

 

Nancy is journaling and I’m writing this more public journal. Despite the fact that the apartment has TV we probably won’t watch it. We find we are not missing it at all.

 

 

August 22, 2008

 

We visited Grace Cathedral and took some pictures. Then we went to the outdoor labyrinth to meet the Rev. Dr. Lauren Artress who is credited with bringing back the labyrinth to use as a modern spiritual practice. She has written several books on spirituality and labyrinths and she most generously agreed to meet with us for a conversation. We had a lively hour and half with Lauren, which was most helpful. She provided us with some new insights and resources. And she suggested ideas on how to engage children with a labyrinth, as well as adults. We met some more Cathedral staff and then had lunch in the apartment.

 

It was time to see a bit of the town. A cable car line runs right by the Cathedral but we decided to walk to the Cable Car museum (recommended by Nancy’s dad.) Leaving the cable car museum, we caught a cable car and rode it to the end.

 

The plan was to get off, get back on and ride it to the other end. We had not counted on all the tourists. The line was a block long to ride it in the other direction. So Nancy, armed with her map, figured out we could take BART (the rapid transit) 2 stops and get on another cable car. We rode it to the end of the line got a bus and then a trolley bus and tried to get on a cable car. But they were all full and did not stop. Back in the trolley bus and we went to another cable car line where they, too, were full of tourists and did not stop. So fortified by an ice cream cone (Don’s was no-fat of course, and Nancy’s homemade rocky road tasted delicious.) they walked back to the Cathedral. Don has decided to be a true San Franciscan you have to be part mountain goat.

 

We prayed the indoor labyrinth, which is modeled after one in the floor of Notre Dame Cathedral at Chartres, France, built in 1201. We continued to write postcards - and managed to work our way through the friends list and the parish list!

 

Among the words of wisdom we received from Lauren Artress was her acknowledgement that we are on a pilgrimage. This word resonated with both Nan and Don. Each place we visit has a gift for us to discover!

 

 

August 23, 2008

 

We attended Morning Prayer this morning in the Cathedral Chapel which we led by the Verger. We went to the coffee shop here in the Cathedral complex and picked up sandwiches for dinner tonight and for lunch tomorrow (as we will be driving to Sacramento to return the rental car.)

 

We got directions to Golden Gate Park and walked a couple of bocks to get two busses to get us there. It took an hour. We got off and went to the deYoung Art Museum in the park. There was a Dale Chihuly exhibit there. We had seen his work glass both in Buffalo and Columbus and looked forward to see it again. When in Buffalo we had insited Joe go with us and then on Christmas Eve morning he rode his bike to the museum to go through the exhibit again.

We were taken by Chihuly ‘s idea that blown glass begins as an exhalation of breath and gravity takes over and transforms it. In essence he believes that glassblowing is an exaggerated form of breathing.

 

We had lunch at the café and then visited the Japanese Tea Garden. The garden reminded Nancy of her trip to Japan to see Joe last year.

 

We took a taxi back to the Cathedral. Before dinner we walked the outdoor labyrinth. Repacked the suitcases for our train travel Monday to LA and Tuesday to Flagstaff and are ready to leave San Francisco following the 8:15 am service at the Cathedral in the morning.

 

 

August  24, 2008

 

Attended the 8:15 service at Grace Cathedral. It was held in the choir (we sat in choir stalls facing one another) with a communion table at one end and a lectern at the other. A nice sense of community. It was Rite 2 with texts from Enriching our Worship. There were hymns so we got to hear the very large organ at work.

 

Following the service we fired up the GPS and headed for Sacramento. A parishioner had strongly suggested we visit the Sacramento State Railroad Museum in Old Sacramento. Got there a bit before noon, purchased tickets to the museum and to the 40 minute excursion along the Sacramento River. Found a small table and had our lunch.  Was it hot (even though it is a dry heat, hot is hot – hovering just over 100)!

 

The ride was behind a small steam engine rescued from a quarry. It was an oil burning switcher that had been rebuilt by the museum for the 6 mile excursion by the river. It was a lovely ride. We had decided to do the first class car – air conditioned. Another beautiful restoration – all rosewood interior with some inlaid wood designs – with an observation platform at the end of the car. We met a young Asian man from Maryland who loves trains. He and Nancy had an on-going conversation – she mentoring him in the fine points of trains and suggesting other trains on the east coast for him to ride.

 

Following the ride we walked over to the museum. It is a lovely place with trains set in a context – including a diorama of the building of the transcontinental railroad and the role of the Chinese workers. They even had a second floor exhibit of an engine and freight cars going over a trestle (along with an extensive exhibit of toy trains). 

 

We went to the Amtrak station (less than a block away) and checked our suitcases for the train the next day, and dropped off the car. They were supposed to drive us to our motel but had neglected to tell us we had to be there by 2 pm – we had been told the car had to be back by 3 pm. So they refused to do anything more than call a cab for us before they closed. The cab eventually arrived. The back of the motel faced the Amtrak station, a convenient choice for an early train tomorrow.

 

Nancy phoned her friend from Notre Dame, Rita Spillane. Rita and her husband Tom picked us up. We went to their home, from which Don was able to send a couple of emails. Their house is in the process of major remodeling so we walked about 8 blocks to a neighborhood ice cream parlor where we had a light dinner – heavy on the ice cream ( Nancy is her father’s daughter).  Rita pointed out that the men’s sandwiches are cut in half, while the women’s are in thirds!  We met the mayor of Sacramento, Heather Fargo, as we were finishing our ice cream and received an “official welcome!” (Rita is an Assistant District Attorney for Sacramento.)  

 

Returning to their home we walked past the house in which Ronald Reagan resided while governor of California.   Tom is retired, and among other things raises cactus from seed.  He has between 1000 and 1500 different types of cactus growing.  A handful were in bloom – delicate yellow, bright pink, and brilliant orange blossoms dotted the area where he kept the plants.  We enjoyed our visit with this wonderful couple immensely. 

 

We returned to the hotel and got ready for our early morning. The location of the motel was a plus in the morning but it was noisy and neither of us got much restful sleep.

 

 

August 25, 2008

 

We awoke at 5:30 and walked to the Amtrak station, stopping for a cup of tea at Starbucks. We checked in and got a user id and password for their wi-fi spot. Don uploaded new material for our website. The train arrived about a half hour late (which according to a Via Rail employee is, for the US & Canada, “on time.” )   Nancy is delighted that our roomette is on the west side of the train, which will go along the coast, for roughly 90 miles, ending about Santa Barbara.  We are hoping for clear weather and some wonderful scenery.  We have learned that the coast is often fog-bound in July and August.  Many tourists come expecting “summer” and don’t find it!

 

We immediately went to the dining car and had breakfast. We sat with the grandmother and about 4 year old grandchild going home from summer camp by train. We had decided to add the expense of booking a roomette as it gives us a bit more space, meals, and a plug for the computer (happy Donald!).

 

We spent most of the day (except meal times) in the roomette watching unfolding scenery and conversing.  The afternoon brought us the best viewing: the pacific coast in fog and mist then fog giving way to sunshine.  We watched the waves roll in – wave after wave after wave.  We saw surfers, sunbathers, people waving, cliffs, and birds.  What a wonderful way to travel – neither of us had to drive, and we could both gawk at scenery!

 

We arrived in Los Angeles on time. Got our baggage, rechecked it for Flagstaff and got a taxi to the motel. It was in Chinatown.

 

August 26, 2007

 

Got internet access so it was a late start to the day as Don uploaded to websites, and photo site.

 

Walked through Chinatown and had lunch in a restaurant that has been used as a movie site because of the external architecture. We had their lunch special which was good and quite filling. We recovered our backpacks and overnight bag at the motel and took a taxi to Union Station where we checked them for the afternoon.  Thank goodness for places to leave our heavy backpacks!

 

We walked to Olivera Street area across from the train station. It was the earliest settlement of Los Angeles and includes the oldest Roman Catholic Church and the oldest extant house. We also visited a historic fire house, the first built in the city. Olivera Street has a large number of small vendors in shops and booths selling Mexican and Spanish related items. Being a semi arid desert the heat took its toll and we walked back to the station to wait the last two hours.  The station is not air conditioned, and has doors open to courtyards.  The sparrows flew in and out of the waiting area – they have learned to beg for food!

 

Had a snack and waited for the 6:45 departure of the Southwest Chief. Recovered our bags and boarded the train which left the station exactly on time. Roles were reversed as Nancy worked on writing and Don looked at the changing landscape in the setting sunset. We had a late dinner (8:45 seating) with an interesting man – Jim – who was traveling by train to Washington and the Chesapeake Bay. We also engaged another couple in conversation about various train rides we and they had been on. We were close to the last ones out of the dining car.  We found that we have enjoyed this “community seating” on the train.

 

 

August 27, 2008

 

We awakened about 4:30am to get dressed for our 5 am arrival in Flagstaff, AZ. We waited in the station’s small waiting room until 8 am when car rental place opened and we could call for our pick up. Nancy conversed with three young women from Great Britain touring the US on holiday, some men from Australia, and the Amtrak agent.

 

We were picked up and now are driving a red PT Cruiser. Surpisingly we were given a stripped model that does not have cruise control, which we didn’t realize until after we drove away.  We drove to Williams and got on the Grand Canyon Railroad. We had reserved early so we had the front seats in the dome car!  What fun! The tinting on the windows distorted our ability to take photos but with a polarizing filter and taking LOTS of photographs we have a couple that are OK.

 

We arrived at the Canyon. Checked in and got some lunch and given our early morning, rested in the room.   Nancy fell asleep and Don walked down to get photos of the steam engine departure for Williams. We walked a short while along the canyon rim – bought some postcards and returned to the room. After sunset we got a light supper and turned in for the night.

 

 

August 28, 2008

 

Had breakfast at the El Tovar. This is the first hotel at the Grand Canyon and an old Fred Harvey restaurant on the rim of the Canyon. The food was excellent but portions were way too large to finish. We cannot imagine the amount of food wasted here each day.

 

Don did laundry at the camping area while Nancy did some reading and catching up on writing. On the shuttle bus back to the Kachina Lodge where we are staying Don saw an elk standing in the woods near the road. It was a massive animal with a full rack of antlers. It is mating season so it was probably a male.

 

We walked over to Maswik lodge for lunch –just in time to see the steam engine arrive from Williams. It turns on a wye track right by the Maswik so Don took some more pictures of it. It is a good thing we shoot digital or else the photo processing costs would be enormous.

 

At lunch Nancy spoke with a couple of gentlemen from Australia that are traveling in the US. She had met them at the train station while we were waiting. Don watched in ongoing amazement at her people skills.  They are headed to Chicago, Niagara Falls, and Halifax – traveling very light (back pack smaller than Nan’s)!

 

After a brief rest we set off for the post office to mail a couple of packages. As we find birthday or Christmas presents, finish books we are reading, or assemble receipts we will need later in accounting for the grant fund, we ship them off by mail. It will eventually lessen the weight in the suitcases!

 

We had dinner at the Yavapai Café and walked to Mather Point to watch and photograph the sunset over the canyon. We found a spot, rooted ourselves there, and stayed for an hour and a half as the shadows lengthened, the colors changed, and the canyon was enfolded in darkness. During this time Nancy was the volunteer photographer for a number of couples or groups that wanted their picture taken together at sunset.

 

As dusk settled we slowly walked to the Yavapai Point and the shuttle stop and took the shuttle back to the lodge. We had thought about stopping at a restaurant for dessert but there was a half hour to 45 minute wait. Back in the room Don downloaded pictures and Nancy went back outside for some star-gazing. Don discovered a couple of blisters on his feet so he will be off them tomorrow.

 

 

August 29, 2008

We were up at 5:15 am to take a shuttle back to the lookout for sunrise. But as we looked out the window realized that the faint color had already begin to paint the sky. Instead of missing some of it while we rode the shuttle we walked a short walk along the rim and again planted ourselves in an overlook to watch and photograph sunrise. We stayed in the spot for over an hour and then went to the El Tovar for breakfast. A lovely setting and excellent food.

 

Don decided to work on photos and journaling while Nancy took the shuttle to an Indian ruin and museum at the eastern edge of the park. Later Don caught the steam train arriving again – if he doesn’t have some good pictures of this engine it won’t be because he did not try. The very bright sun and almost cloudless sky is strangely enough making picturing taking difficult… he’ll have to learn more about using Photoshop.

 

During the day went back to the place we had taken sunrise photos to take pictures of the changing colors during the day.

 

Lunch was light and we ate separately. The first time we have done that since we began this leave. It was a bit strange. We still enjoy 99% of our time together – even in close quarters and 24/7 (the other 1% usually ends up being communications difficulties when we are tired).

 

We went back to the El Tovar for dinner.  Nancy enjoyed her venison ribs!

e’ll have to learn more about photosho[p

 

 

August 30, 2008

 

We leave the canyon today. Nancy awoke not feeling well – a tightness in her chest and some sinus trouble. She has been having some ongoing sinus problems. Over breakfast we determined she needed to go to the park clinic right away. (With over 3,000 employees living in the park and 2 million visitors a year they have a clinic open daily.)

 

After an x-ray to look for pneumonia, it seems Nancy has had a sinus infection that has migrated deep into her lungs. She was given medication to take.  The x-ray technician was from Syracuse, and her son helped get the Southwedge Farmer’s Market running in Rochester (which we have frequented)!  It’s a small world.  We packed the suitcases, checked our backpack with the bellman and then had lunch.

 

It had been cloudy over the canyon and as we left for lunch it began to rain. Out came the ponchos and we did a very slow walk along the Canyon rim noting the different coloration that comes with clouds and moisture. 

 

Nancy was quite tired from the short walk so we sat on the porch of the El Tovar hotel for a while and then made our way to the train station for the ride back to Williams. We got some dinner to go and then drove 2 hours in the rain north to Page, Arizona where we will stay for 4 days. 

 

For More Pictures please check out Don & Nancy's Photo Gallery 8/25 to 9/3

 

 

September 5, 2008

 

We drove to Zion National Park today. (Driving in we may have seen either a condor or an eagle.) The area was settled by Mormons seeking relief from religious persecution. Zion was made a National Park early in the 20th century. The entry road in was scenic – but was designed for Model T Fords. The two lane road is narrow with no shoulders, steep grades and curves, and includes a mile long rock tunnel that was an engineering feat in its day and is still very impressive. Because we were staying in the park we were allowed to drive to the lodge. The only transportation allowed in the major section of the park is the shuttle. This saves, by their calculations, 25 tons of CO2 entering the atmosphere each day. And given the narrow roads it relieves a great deal of traffic congestion.

 

We took the shuttle to the Grotto and had a picnic lunch, then went to the Visitors  Center and the Museum of Human History at Zion.

 

Unlike Bryce, where you look down on the canyon from above, most viewing  is done in Zion from the canyon floor up to the towering rock formations above you. Since the early pioneers to the area were Mormon the names reflect that religious heritage. Names of prominent features include Maroni; the Patriarchs (Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob); the altar of sacrifice, and the white throne.

 

Several of these massive sandstone cliffs rise thousands of feet from the valley where for millions of years the Virgin River has carved and shaped the landscape.

 

Had dinner in the Lodge. (As a usual practice now we order one dinner and a salad, and share them between the two of us. It cuts down on the waste of food.) 

 

After dinner we sat on a bench and watched the wild turkeys on the lawn in front of the lodge. And later Nancy went out to look for deer and the stars.  Given the lack of light pollution, the Milky Way spreads across the sky.

 

Tomorrow in the cool of the morning we will do some hiking.

 

 

September 6, 2008

 

After breakfast and Morning Prayer we took the shuttle to the trail that leads to the narrows of the Virgin River. The canyon narrows until one is forced either to walk in the river or turn back.  The rocks are slippery and so no river walking for us.

 

But here in the middle of a desert we found a small swamp, and weeping rocks which support plant life different from the desert ecology. In the shade of the taller narrow canyon there is a very different climate.

 

We left the park and drove through Utah and into Nevada. We had thought we would stay in one of several small towns in Nevada en-route to Ely. However there were no motels or places to stay in the towns other than for RV’s. We forgot how unpopulated this area is. We drove for almost an hour on a major (for this area) route ( US 50) without passing another car. So we ended up in Ely, Nevada where we will be staying for the week.

 

On arriving we noted that the Nevada Northern is having a special Bar-B-Q train tonight – so we will be there for dinner, to see the station and the layout.

Rode the train tonight - a very nice dinner. We sat with a couple from California – he is also a rail fan.  We traded stories and information with them. We also got to talking with the couple who catered the dinner. They operate a local restaurant in Ely – we will try it on Sunday.

 

After dinner we went to the open car and watched the stars (clear night – but cold – you could see so many more stars than at home).   Nancy got chilled so we went back into the dining car. A very nice evening.

 

 

September 7, 2008

 

We found an Episcopal Church in Ely, St Bartholomew’s. The front door was locked and as we were standing there the deacon arrived and welcomed and escorted us into the church through the side door. Some very friendly people here. An older woman ordained 2 years and not the regular priest was the celebrant and preacher for the service.

 

The people sitting ahead of us, Margaret and Tom, welcomed us and gave us a bit of the story of the parish and made sure we got down to the coffee hour – they had make it yourself banana splits or sundaes – not the usual fare. Nancy hit it off with some of the women of the parish and may connect with one or two during the week. She recommended a couple of books for them to consider as they begin a book study they were interested in doing.  We also found that the town has a public labyrinth.

 

After lunch we headed out on Route 50.  In this area it is called the “loneliest highway in America  (and there are "I survived US 50" kits inthe stores) to get to Great Basin National Park. There we took a tour of the Lehman Caves. They were discovered in the late 1800’s and are extraordinary in their complexity and the many kinds of, and the sheer numbers of forms that exist in them. After the hour tour went up the scenic drive to Wheeler Peak overlook – it is a 13,000 foot peak. The drive takes you above 10,000 feet. There are bristlecone pines, up nearer the peak, that are estimated to be over 3000 years old. On the drive back to Ely we saw a Pronghorn Antelope run across the road.

 

We returned to Ely and checked into the motel we will be in for the week. It is a bit basic… We then went to a neighboring hotel – Hotel Nevada – for dinner. A bit of culture shock - it is a casino as well as a hotel. And we found out that the legal brothel is just down the street a bit.  So we walked UP the street to pray the labyrinth before returning to the room.

 

 

September 9, 2008

 

The first day of rail camp was more orientation. Don took what the Executive Director Mark Bassett called the “death march” It was a 2 ½ hour walking tour of the 56 acres and buildings on the site. Especially going to places the public never sees. They have 3 steam engines - two are out of service waiting for axel rebuilding, and one needs total restoration. They also have some vintage diesel, and other vintage rolling stock.

 

The afternoon was a tour of the local copper mine – both the mining pit and the plant where ore is crushed and copper extract is created. Interestingly most of the copper concentrate is sent to the west coast ( Vancouver, Washington) for shipment to smelters in China. (There are only 3 smelters left in the US.)

 

Tonight we had dinner at a local restaurant and a video presentation on the mining history of the region and role of the Nevada Northern Railroad in that history.

 

After a delightful conversation with her parents, Nancy spent the morning at the library, where she finished reading The Desert Mothers (a book by Mary C. Earle that invites the reader to engage the practices of the 3rd and 4th women who went to the desert in Egypt to discover a path to God) and began The Sacred Path Companion (a book about engaging labyrinths). She also wrote an installment of Lizzie’s blog.  Lunch at the local soda fountain was followed by a stop at the Chamber of Commerce for a map of mural locations (painted on various buildings, they depict historic events in Ely).  She visited a local knitting/cross stitch/quilting shop, and was invited to the Wednesday evening project group. 

 

For More Pictures please check out Don & Nancy's Photo Gallery 9/4 to 9/10

 

 

September 12, 2008

 

It has been a busy week. We are up each day be 6 AM having breakfast at 6:45 – 7 so we can be at he depot by 8 AM. Nancy has joined the whole group each morning for breakfast and is now seen as part of the group.  The men of Rail Camp eat together, with lunch provided by a local pharmacy’s soda fountain, and dinner provided by a local restaurant, The Big Apple (sometimes at the restaurant, sometimes at the depot plaza).  Each evening there is some presentation, and usually return to the motel by 9.

 

On Wednesday Don worked in the engine and machine shop first getting an orientation on the locomotives (and an opportunity to start one) then on the steam engines and the slow progress on the restoration of the engines. In the afternoon his team worked on getting a vintage tank care restored. They did wood working on the cradle for the tank, prepared the trucks for painting and did a first coat of paint. At dinner Don had one of the presentations outlining his lifelong interest in railroads and his more recent vacation activity of finding trains to ride.

On Thursday Don’s team worked train operations – they staffed the excursion train shadowing the conductor, brakeman and engineer (which meant riding for a while in the cab of the diesel locomotive.) On the trains return they took a test (100 questions) of the operating rules of the Nevada Northern RR. Don did OK (75 right) since there was not a lot of time to study the rule book. In the afternoon they were shown how to couple and uncouple cars to the engine – including the use of hand signals to “control” the locomotive.

On Friday Don and the team were on the track crew. They got instruction on track inspection, and in the afternoon replaced two ties (one with great ease and one with great difficulty). It is hot tiring work. Don recalled the labor of so many nationalities that were “imported” to do this dangerous and backbreaking work. Nancy joined us for dinner as well as for the rest of the presentations by Rail Camp members.

Nancy’s week has been busy and productive as well.  She’s read several books, been to the library, several local shops, and eaten at a number of restaurants, all within walking distance of the motel.  Her most interesting time was with a medicine woman, who has been working her way through a number of questions Nancy put together.  Don figures that if Nancy stayed in town for another week or so, she might be well enough known to local people to be able to run for an elected office! 

 

 

September 14, 2008

 

After Morning Prayer we had breakfast with the Executive Director of the Nevada Northern Railway and his wife (who is the curator and directs the Rail Camp programs) to do a lively and mostly positive evaluation of the program. Don took Nancy on a short tour of the engine house and grounds. And we began the drive across Utah.

 

After an hour or so we came to Sevier Lake. The portion we could see was a dry lake bed – white with the salts left by evaporated water (remember, we are in the Great Basin – an area from which no water reaches the ocean, it either evaporates or sinks into the ground). We believe the lake extends roughly 30 miles south from the road.  It was a very bright white.

 

We didn’t see many people, though, especially in the western part of Utah.  We did see some rather interesting devices – several dozen of them – in the desert.  They had a reflective or solar panel looking thing, which was angled much like a pillow on a bed on a raised platform (rectangular with four legs).  After driving several miles and wondering what these things were, we saw a sign about a cosmic ray project.  Bingo!

As we continued the drive the plants and rock colors changed – we drove through a spectacular area, the San Rafael Reef. We saw breathtaking vistas which included seeing the road we were taking curve on down into the distance.  One section was blasted from a canyon which was wide enough at one end to touch both walls at once – removing 3.5 million cubic yards of rock to make a two lane highway (which now is a four lane highway).  We stopped at several scenic view areas, and enjoyed their signs.  We also found several Navajo selling jewelry at these areas – what a difficult way to make a living.

 

We ended up staying the night in Moab, Utah, just outside of Arches National Park. It is one of Joe’s favorite places.  This, however, was one thing too many to add to our itinerary, so we will leave it for another time. 

 

 

September 15, 2008

 

We left Moab and drove to Dolores, Colorado. Our first brief stop was at the Rio Grande Southern Museum (a volunteer run operation in a building that is a reproduction of the original station). There they have on display a Galloping Goose. This railroad, during the depression, could not afford to do maintenance on the track and bridges so they could run larger engines.  So they modified several Pierce Arrow cars to carry passengers and freight – the ride was such that they got nicknamed “Galloping Goose.”  This mode of transportation continued to carry passengers and some freight until 1951.  The volunteer staffing the station asked Don if he wanted to sit in the driver’s seat – one ask was enough! 

 

Outside of Dolores, CO is the Anasazi Heritage Center.  This center tells the story of the ancient people who left the various cliff dwellings and other dwelling sites in this part of the four corners region ( Utah, Colorado, Arizona and New Mexico). The Anasazi are the forbearers of the Hopi, Navajo, Ute, Tewa and other area tribes.  There are two sets of ruins on the Visitor Center site. The Center is also the repository for the millions of artifacts collected from a number of sites before the McPhee Reservoir was created. Nancy saw types of pottery and other artifacts she has never seen before in other museum exhibits. She wove on a replica of the upright loom, and ground corn into meal (which was not as difficult as she had assumed). And they have recreated an underground pithouse based on the artifacts found in a trench.  The exhibits were beautifully crafted, showing this ancient people as well as the history of the archaeology of the site (which lead to congress passing an act to protect such sites in the early 1900’s). 

 

We are spending the night in Cortez, CO. We found a unique restaurant which is a microbrewery and the owner has his own herd of Angus cattle which are raised for use in specific dishes at the restaurant. They are free of hormones and antibiotics, and range fed. They are also fed on grain left over from the brewing process. It was interesting to talk with the owner and we found the beef quite good. 

 

 

 

 

 

September 16, 2008

 

We spent today at Mesa Verde.  This is a World Historic Site. On this plateau are many significant archeological ruins of ancient Puebloan dwelling. The most impressive being the cliff dwellings. Some are easily accessible and Don and Nancy visited several of them. The Cliff Palace tour involved hiking a trail to the cliff and climbing ladders (something Don is not supposed to do) so Nancy took the ranger led tour.

 

Arrived in Durango, CO where we will spend two days. We will ride the Durango & Silverton on Wednesday. Our hotel is next to the train station so we were able to watch the train movements this evening getting ready for tomorrow.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/Woodhill295/Sept414#

 

 

September 19, 2008

 

Today we rode the Cumbres & Toltec from Chama, NM to Antonito, CO. We were in the parlor car with access to the open air car. Our acquaintances Sandy and Fran were in this car as well. It is a beautiful ride climbing up a 4% grade from Chama through Cumbres Pass to Osier, CO.  The steep grade means that the engine has to work had pulling the cars uphill and thus the engine sounds (the chuffing) are more pronounced. That plus the sound of the whistle, and smell of coal smoke provide the atmosphere we really enjoy. 

 

There were the beginning fall colors and some of the Aspen were turning gold. It is still early for the full range of fall colors.  During this trip, we cross the state border between New Mexico and Colorado eleven times!

 

The trains stopped at Osier for lunch, and what a lunch!  One has a choice of a full turkey dinner, a meatloaf dinner, and a soup and salad bar.  We got off the train from Chama to have lunch at about noon. The train from Antonito pulled in 15 minutes later. They ran the engines around to the other end of each train and after lunch those going to Chama got on the Chama train which headed back to Chama and those going to Antonito (us) got on the train back to Antonito.  It was raining during most of our time at Osier, but that didn’t dampen the delight at being able to take this ride again. 

 

The train goes through two tunnels.  Outside of one, there is a memorial to President Garfield, placed there by workers after they received news of Garfield’s assassination on September 19, 1881.  We were there to the day!  We watched as the flora changed from pine trees to firs, to shrubs, to sagebrush over the course of the afternoon ride. We got into Antonito about 4:30 and took a bus back to Chama, retracing part of the day’s route. The bus ride took a little over an hour while the train had taken 7.5 hours not counting lunch. 

 

Back at the room Don worked on downloading and uploading photos for several hours.

 

 

September 20, 2008

 

After breakfast we were back in the yards at Chama. Since we had to drive through Antonito to get to Alamosa (where we are spending the night), we decided to “chase” the train. We would get ahead of the train, stop at a crossing or other vantage point (along with several other train chasers, with license plates from Missouri, California, Georgia, New Mexico, Colorado, and Oregon) to take pictures of the train as it steamed past and get back in the car and drive to the next vantage point. We were aided by several people who had done this previously.  It was great fun and we got some good picture. Adding to this experience was the fact that they were running a “double header” (two engines) on a long train.  Alas, after two hours of chasing, the tracks veered away from the road and we could chase this train no further. 

 

We then drove to Alamosa where we had lunch. We decided to visit Great Sand Dunes National Park beyond Alamosa. The dunes are created from dust and sand from the San Juan mountains (which were formed by volcanic action) accumulating due to wind and water at the foot of the Sangre de Christo mountains (formed of sedimentary rock). Thus, it is possible to test the sand’s composition to see from which mountain range it derives.  It is a diverse ecology with wetlands, sand dunes, and other dissimilar areas of the biome dependant on one another.  The tallest dune is 750 feet, and the dunes cover 30 square miles.  

 

Getting to the motel we realized it was time to do laundry again.  The change machine was supposed to give three five dollar bills and five dollars worth of quarters for a twenty (Nancy’s smallest bill).  But she got $20 worth of quarters – enough for a few more loads of laundry.  

 (PS – Nancy had a conversation with out eldest son Joe about his recovery and about his decision to stay in Japan another year. Since we are ¾ of the way across the USA we have decided that Nancy will not be returning to Rochester with me by train. She will fly from Phoenix to Japan for a brief visit with Joe before returning to Rochester in time for our official November 8th return.)

 

For More Pictures please check out Don & Nancy's Photo Gallery 9/15 to 9/21

 

September 21, 2008

 

We awoke earl and had Morning Prayer. We arrived at the Alamosa Station to find the steam engine up on jacks in the yard. It seem that they discovered that the engine bearing was getting hot and needed to be replaced. So the work was done in the open air on the rails where it stood. But that put it out of service for our excursion. They substituted a former Amtrak diesel.

 

The first part of the ride was a straight 23 miles across the valley floor. Off in the distance we could see the Great Sand Dunes against the base of the mountain. We climbed to the LeVeta Pass or what they call Fir Station (though there is no physical station there.) Getting there we met the train from La Veta to Alamosa. Then we continued on to LaVeta. From Fir to LaVeta was a wonderful ride with tight curves hugging the mountain side and would have been spectacular with the addition of the steam engine.

 

We got talking to a retired Amtrak engineer who volunteers as an engineer on the Spokane, Seattle and Portland 700 crew, on the Mt Hood RR and at a train at a zoo near his home. He was with a rail tour group as an expert escort. He was interesting to talk with and he gave us his card with some websites we should check out.

 

We had lunch in the inn at le Veta. On the way back a member of a rail center tour group sat with us. (The group had been on the Cumbres we had chased the day before and several people remembered seeing the red PT Cruiser parked at the various crossings and photo spots.) Margaret was a delightful woman raised in the UK who moced to the US 40 years ago. She was on the tour primarily to go to Silverton where her son had visited and loved.  She told us of her travels, and philosophy of life. She is “spiritual” but has no place for religion in her life. She likes organ music and Nancy let her know she was a church musician. But we decided not to let her know Don was clergy – we did not want to make her uncomfortable. The tour group was not going to get to go to Great Sand Dunes NP. Nancy shared with her much of the Ranger Talk – so she was okeased to know a bit about ti and will Google it when she gets home.

 

We drove to Walsenberg, CO and stayed for the night. We had dinner and then celebrated Eucharist in the room

 

 

 

September 23, 2008

 

Awoke early and had breakfast. We prayed the labyrinth (an ancient 11 circuit pattern) and began to do reading and writing. Don finished a batch congregational of post cards and was writing some journal reflections we will work on after we get home.

 

After lunch we took a walk on the grounds. Some tasks (accounting and this journal) preceded quiet time for reading and writing.

 

Tomorrow we drive to Pike’s Peak near Colorado Springs so it will be an early departure. Again it is difficult to leave this special center knowing it is unlikely that we will be able to return.

 

 

September 22, 2008

 

Drove over the Raton Pass, through Raton, and to DesMoines, NM where the Mandella center is located. It is in the middle of a working cattle ranch.

 

There is no other group here so we will prepare our own meals. There are no grocery stores in any of the towns near the center. We stopped at the post office to mail postcards and get a box ( box #5) to mail more things home to reduce the weight.  From the postmistress we got directions to the nearest grocery store. “Drive to Raton and turn left at the light.”

 

First we drove first to Capulin Volcano National Park where we could drive up to the remains of the caldera and walk down into it. But just as we got there the rain started coming in sheets. So we drove back down the volcano (how often can one write that?)  And we drove back into Raton and to the grocery store.

 

We fixed dinner and did some writing and personal & congregational planning our reentry back into parish life. Took pictures of the sunset and after dark Nancy went out to do some star gazing. She says it is magical to see the Milky Way from horizon to horizon. Being in the middle of nowhere has its advantages as there is little ambient light.

 

 

 

 

 

September 25, 2008

 

We arrived at the train station at 9 am. Nancy had, as a surprise, booked us for a cab ride for the 9:30 departure. It is an old F7 diesel unit set originally run on freight service by the Chicago and Northwestern. It was later rebuilt for passenger service and eventually sold to the Royal Gorge. Bob, the engineer met us and escorted us to the engine. He has been working railroads for 50 years – 40 with Chicago and Northwestern and 10 with Royal Gorge. He is a story teller and very informative. He also produced 5 train videos, and is the state coordinator for Operation Lifesaver.  In addition he is being trained to run steam on the San Luis and Rio Grande.

 

Interestingly while the track belongs to Royal Gorge (they purchased it from Union Pacific), UP still does the dispatching (from Omaha) and maintains the signal system. The tracks are shared with a railroad that ships rock out of a quarry operation at the other end of the line (Parkdale).

 

It was a beautiful ride through the gorge and under the high bridge. You can really see quite a bit from the F unit front windows, unlike other engines that don’t give a very good view of the tracks. It was a special day on the bridge – they had people jumping off the bridge on a bungee cord. They had to coordinate the train so no one jumped while the train was passing underneath.

 

We also took the 12:30 train – we had to get lunch somewhere and lunch was served on the train! So we rode through the gorge twice. We the set off overland to get to Cripple Creek, CO via a rather narrow, twisty, curvy set of county roads (which afforded spectacular scenery).  That narrow gauge ride had been commended to us by several people. The GPS wanted to send us over a narrow old road called the Skyline Drive that, we found out later eventually turns into a dirt road. But Nancy overruled the unit and navigated us via paved roads. 

 

Cripple Creek is an old gold mining town. It was served by standard gauge Colorado Midland Railroad until the late 40’s.  More recently a 2 foot gauge railroad was started and does a short 45 minute ride with small steam engines. So small that the engineer is also the fireman and the trip narrator. Nancy enjoyed seeing the aspen turning gold.

 

It was amazing to see all the remains of the mining – from buildings and equipment ruins to mine tailings and prospector holes. And while we were learning about old mines- we saw a modern mine hauler (VERY large truck) dumping tailings from a modern mine that uses acid to leach gold from the ore. One can only wonder about the long term results of that sort of activity 100 years from now.

 

Leaving Cripple Creek we back tracked past Pikes Peak and over to Georgetown for the night.

 

 

September 26, 2009

 

Got a relaxed start and drove to the Georgetown station – just a few minutes from the motel. The Georgetown Loop is a famous attraction. But it is only 4 miles of track that takes the train from Georgetown to Silver Plume. The direct distance between the two is 1 mile. But the increase in elevation is 600 feet. In order to make it possible for a railroad to be built the designers had to build a trestle and to loop the railroad around to extend the distance and achieve the increase in elevation at a workable rate (4%, or 4 feet gain for every 100 feet forward, is considered very steep for a steam engine).  Nancy has vague memories of an old black and white movie (silent?) which featured this trestle. 

 

We, along with a host of other people, got on the train cars pulled by diesel (they are actively restoring steam engine #12, and have plans to restore engine #9 as well) to make our way around the loop and up over the high bridge. And then we took the return ride.  With a 25 minute stop at Silver Plume, we returned to Georgetown an hour and a quarter after we started out.  Following this delightful ride we made our way to the village and had lunch and then walked the Main Street acquiring a few more Christmas presents.  We scurried to the car late afternoon as the rain began.  The morning had brought blue skies with a few clouds.

 

We met two artists who were in town for the Aspen Festival on Saturday and Sunday and has a delightful chat with them.

 

For More Pictures please check out Don & Nancy's Photo Gallery 9/22 to 9/29

 

 

October 5, 2008

 

Had morning prayers and began our drive to El Paso. Decided to visit two of the Spanish Salinas mission churches begun by the Franciscans in honor of St Francis.  It began to rain (quite unusual at this time of year) as we left Albuquerque. Found the first one, Quarai, and despite the fact it was still raining we walked to the church. Though abandoned in the 17th century and is now in ruins, it still is impressive.  Drove on to San Gregorio de Abo (for whom we had named one of our cats) and by the time we got there the rain was passing.

 

Stopped for lunch at one of Joe’s favorite places in Socorro and then stopped at a used book store in Las Cruces. Drove on to El Paso and checked into our hotel.  Walked to the air terminal and met Nancy’s Mom and Dad. They arrived OK, but their luggage did not (it was delivered to the hotel the next day).

 

 

October 6, 2008

 

Following breakfast we headed off to White Sands. It is an impressive sight with all these white dunes (actually gypsum sand).  We drove by the Organ Mountains, whose rock formations appear as organ pipes on the way.

 

We took a short walk on a boardwalk.  Then mom and Nancy, following long tradition, removed their shoes and socks and climbed to the top of a dune and took pictures – Dad and I decided to stay at the car and take picture of them. Each of us felt we had chosen wisely. 

 

We went to Mesilla (outside of Las Cruces) to a restaurant called La Posta which had at one time been the jail for the New Mexico Territory.  Poncho Villa and Billy the Kid were detained in the facility. It became a restaurant in 1939. Excellent New Mexican food and service.  On the way back to the motel we stropped at the tramway in a state park in the middle of El Paso. Mom, Dad and Nancy took the 6 passenger gondola to the top.  Don said he would have to be sedated to make the trip and watched from the parking lot.

 

We met tonight with the tour group leaders and members. At 5:45 am we have to have the suitcases out in the hallway and be at breakfast. We leave at 6:45 am for the tour of Mexico.

 

 

October 7, 2008

 

We were up at 5:15 am so we could pack the suitcases, and then call Joe on his birthday. Had breakfast at 6am and were on the bus by 6:45. Crossed the border where we had to get off the bus, get our suitcase and then go to the officer and press a button.  The button activated a light which turned either green (no inspection) or red (your suitcase was inspected.)  We all managed to hit green.  Then we had to fill out an immigration form before getting on the bus again.

 

The tour guide Carolos began his narration (which continued non-stop for two hours). 30 km into Mexico we passed an inspection point and then had to change busses and board the “Mexican bus” we will be on for the tour.

 

Following the morning “bathroom break” stop they showed the old movie Treasure of the Sierra Madre, as we are headed toward these mountains.

 

We had lunch at a Mexican restaurant in Chihuahua City. The served an excellent sampler plate. They provided us with bottled water, and a coconut flan for dessert.  Yum!

 

We arrived in Creel and our motel. We are in a very nice cabin. And we will be able to watch the presidential debate as it has a working television, which gets CNN.

 

There was a reception preceding dinner. We sat with a family from New Orleans and a couple from Michigan. We watched the end of the debate and then went outside to enjoy the quiet and watch the stars.

 

 

October 8 , 2008

 

After breakfast and morning prayer, we took a walk into the town of Creel. It is a small town with two churches on the town square.  We were told of the Mission Shop – it is a store that sells Tarahumara made goods and the proceeds provides free health care to the native people. We did some Christmas shopping and took the shuttle back to the hotel.

 

Carlos, our guide, told us we had to have meeting before departure as “something had happened.”  One of the freight trains on the line between Creel and Chihuahua had derailed and that the west-bound train was not able to get from Chihuahua to pick us up.  AND there was an international bicycle race that had closed the main two-lane highway that normally would be used to transport us to another place where the east-bound train could pick us up. So we could not use the motor coach but had to ride in vans over the dirt road for 30 minutes then onto the 2 lane paved highway for another hour to get to the hotel where we would have lunch and then pick up the train to El Fuerte.

 

Nancy needed a seat towards the front of the van, so she went onto a different van from Don and her mother and father. It was indeed a dirt road – rutted with deep gullies and a LOT of traffic (including a motor coach) going over it. We saw scenery not usually seen by a tour group including a man leading 4 burrows loaded with firewood.  We went almost as fast up and down and side to side as we did forward. Arriving at the paved road Nancy observed some trucks and determined there had been a car crash there with the vehicle over the side of the road (It was later confirmed to be the case.)  When we got to the road leading to the hotel it was being “repaved with a mixture of red dirt and gravel” being brought in by the truckload. The vans had to skirt around the piles of gravel and the road grader to get to the hotel for lunch (which was to be on the train).  As Carlos said in his introductory remarks “The traveler’s key is patience.”  We were amazed at how well he handled both the situation and the group members.

 

The hotel is on the rim of the canyon and we will be staying there two nights from today. They had done a great job of preparing for this unexpected set of guests. Carlos spent most of his time on the phone making various arrangements. He met with us at two and let us know we would be taking a school bus to the train tracks where they would unload the first class passengers and luggage from the train car reserved by Caravan and load us on. It would go one more stop to an over look where they would unload the economy passengers and then head back in the other direction to El Fuerte where we would spend the night.

 

When the train arrived it began to rain a bit. At the overlook we were given 15 minutes to get off the train got to the overlook, take a few rapid pictures and get back on the train. By the time we got to the overlook and started to take pictures it began to really rain. As we began the train ride to El Fuerte the rain became mixed with hail. And we discovered that the train seats did not swivel around so most of us were facing in the wrong direction watching where we had been rather than were we were going. The good news is that the vestibules were open and Dad and Don could take pictures from there as we traveled.

 

There was a stop at San Raphael for a crew change and for the crew to turn the engine on a wye so it would not have to be run in reverse to El Fuente.  Carlos encouraged us to buy goods from the Tarahumara women who crowded around the train at this stop with baskets, shawls and fruit.  Some walk several hours each day to get there and the sale of these crafts provides most of the income of the family.

 

The canyons are different form the Grand Canyon in that it is a series of canyons and not one large canyon. They have different geological origins (volcanic rather than sedimentary at the Grand Canyon) and there is a great deal of foliage and trees. (making taking pictures from a moving train a bit of a challenge) and several of canyons are deeper than the Grand Canyon.  For much of the daylight portion of the trip, the train runs on a “shelf” blasted from the rock midway between the top and bottom of the canyon.  It is a spectacular ride.

 

One surprise was armed guards, carrying automatic weapons.  Upon inquiring, we were told that this was considered a “money train” as there are usually a great number of foreign tourists on this train.  Fourteen years ago the train was robbed by bandits, who shot and killed a Belgian passenger (who would not stop recording the incident on film).  The government was afraid that tourists would stop coming, so armed guards have been traveling with the train ever since.

 

We had dinner in the dining car at about 7 pm. The rail staff did an excellent job of providing a nice dinner (Chicken cordon blue) for the 45 unexpected passengers.

 

Following dinner the train slowed and then stopped for about 40 minutes.  Once the train was going again Carlos informed us it was as a result of a rock slide (unusual for this time of year). Once we got going again Nancy noticed an insect clinging to the outside of the train window by our seat. I identified it as a grasshopper. She wondered aloud if it was the advance party for the plague of locusts. 

 

We arrived at our hotel about 11:15 and were grateful for the comfortable bed to quickly fall asleep on.  Each room was described by our guide as having its own charm.  He is indeed right!  This hotel was a private home dating to the 1700’s, with fabulous gardens (with palms and tropical fruit trees, what we would find in a conservatory at home), that has been added to on a regular basis for many years.

 

 

October 9, 2008

This morning we had a later start – thanks to Carlos adjusting the schedule.  We left at 9:30 for the float trip down the river.  As the bus bounced its way to the river – Don decided not to go and returned to the hotel with Carlos. Nancy went on the float trip and had a wonderful time.  The birds provided their own symphony as the rafts floated down Rio El Fuerte.  We saw egrets, blue heron, turkey vultures and black vultures as well as brightly colored small birds.  The river was swollen and muddy from recent rains, otherwise it is clear.

 

Carlos took us on a tour of our historic hotel, the fort, and town square. We had lunch at a local restaurant – tacos (either marlin or beef) and lunch was followed by a fashion show of costumes portraying important themes in the life and history of the region.  The area was inhabited by the Mayo (not Maya) Indians when the Spanish arrived in the mid-1500’s.  The fort (now represented by a replica) was built in the early 1600’s, and staffed by Franciscans and Spanish officials.

 

There was a Zorro show sponsored by the hotel. (The legend was based on a person who. was born in what is now part of the hotel complex.) Following that was the complementary marguerite while we watched Folklorico dances. Dinner followed. Two women one a teacher and one a nurse joined us for dinner, as did Ray and Nancy, and Steve who is traveling by himself and was very quiet and withdrawn

 

October 10, 2008

 

After breakfast and prayers we got on the bus to go to the train station to get on the train to Hotel Mirador (where we had lunch two days before.) The heat and humidity rose as we waited. Next to the open air waiting area were several box cars that had windows cut into them. They serve as living quarters for railroad workers. It reminded us of Lee Connolly’s experiences living in a box car in British Columbia when her husband was on the section crew. Several cows and a couple of burrows were grazing around the rail station as well. The train was expected between 8:30 and 9:30 if th was to be considered “on time.”  It arrived about 9:40 so Carlos declared it to be 15 minutes late.

 

We were on the right side of the train so we could seem most of the canyons that we missed in the dark two days before. Dad and Don went to the vestibules and ensconced themselves in the open doorways for picture taking until it was time to go to lunch. Don got talking with a man from Seattle also named Don. They ended up exchanging email addresses and may exchange pictures. Don from Seattle and his wife are traveling with another couple. Walter, the husband, also joined the Dons in contorting to take pictures in brief spaces as the train went along at 40 miles per hour forward and about the same side to side.

Had lunch with Mom and Dad and then resumed our seats with Don taking pictures out of the window (the vestibules had been filled with other riders. Dad went to the off limits rear vestibule of our car to take pictures for a while, until asked to leave by the train crew.

 

We arrived at Hotel Mirador which is built into the canyon rim and each room has a balcony overlooking the canyon. We were given a welcoming margurita and assigned our rooms. At 6 there was entertainment - a singe. Nancy enjoyed the popcorn and Don the margarita. Dinner followed and we were seated with a university professor of economics and her civil engineer husband. Their daughter had been part of the JET program a few years back.

 

 

 

October 11, 2008

 

Nancy was up early to watch the sunrise over the canyon. There was fog and clouds which produced interesting effects as clouds covered and revealed the orange glow of the rising sun.

 

Following breakfast Nancy, Mom & Dad “followed Carlos as he took his morning walk.” Caravan tour directors are not allowed to lead hikes on these trails as there are no guard rails and the trail is loose rock. We were warned the people with walking or balance problems should not attempt such a hike so Don stayed in the hotel.

 

The walk took them to an overlook where one could see 3 canyons in the clouds and mist. We once more patronized the Tarahumara vendors outside the hotel. Suitcases had to be packed and outside our door by 11:15 and we will had an early lunch. Nancy and Don chose the now famous tour entree “exquisite chicken al la pollo.”

 

We loaded on the bus and spent the afternoon driving to Chihuahua City. We went to the restaurant for dinner and then checked into out hotel.

 

 

October 12, 2008

 

We spent our 17th wedding anniversary in Mexico. The international bicycle race that had created complications earlier in the week in Creel ended this morning in Chihuahua. The center of the city was cordoned off at 7:30 am. Mom and Dad joined us for Morning prayer. Then Carlos led us on a walking tour to the Cathedral (Roman Catholic of course.) We got there between masse and were encouraged to tour the Cathedral. But were told not to use flash to take pictures “once Mass begins.” Walking outside we noticed a man by the coiner of the Cathedral building putting his whole energy and body weight into pulling on the rope that rang the tower bell to announce Mass. From there we walked past the barriers and got onto the bus.

 

We visited another church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. There are a number of luminaries of Mexico and Chihuahua buried in tombs outside the church. From there we saw an 18th century aqueduct build with roman style arches, And then went to the Poncho Villa museum. It is run by the military at his former home.  Across the street is a store with Mexican crafts and we were given a pottery demonstration by people reviving an ancient craft using ancient techniques.

 

Our lunch was a surprise - a Chinese buffet. After our siesta at the hotel we took a walk around the hotel area including the Cathedral plaza and a pedestrian mall with all sorts of small shops (including a Woolworth’s). We were struck again by the many people who were soliciting or begging along the streets. There is no welfare system so this is the only way some can get food to eat. But even after all these years in parish ministry we had a hard time not being able to help – nor having a way to discern who really needed help and those for whom this was their profession.

 

The Farewell Dinner (or as Carlos accidentally announced it once “The Welfare dinner…”) was at a Mexican steakhouse. On our way into the restaurant Nancy jokingly told Carlos it was so nice of him to invite all these people to celebrate our wedding anniversary with us. Caravan had provided entertainment (a trio who played guitar and sang). After dinner Carlos made an announcement that it was a special day. He manager brought out two crazy hats – Nancy’s was like a jester’s hat except it had Happy Birthday written on it in English. The other which was placed on Don’s head looked like he was wearing a soccer ball. Carlos then sang Malaguenia to us. The restaurant provided a very large3 piece of chocolate cake which Nancy enjoyed and shared with her Dad (neither of whom liked the tequila pie that was the desert for the dinner.)

 

 

October 13, 2008

 

We were up early, bags out at 5:50am, breakfast at 6am and on the bus at 6:35.   Nancy was not feeling well and riding in the last seat of the bus did not add to her comfort. (They have a rotation of seating in the bus.)

 

The bus was inspected by the military (looking for drug smuggling) in Mexico. We switched from the Mexican bus to the American bus for transfer back to the US and went through the US Customs and Immigration inspection. We were back qat thed hyotel by 1:30. Nancy was not feeling up to having lunch so we bade goodbye to Mom and Dad and headed to Los Cruces. W checked into the motel room and Nancy lay dawn for a rest. Don got some detergent and began the laundry.

 

The motel was recently renovated. We think it was by the same guys who worked on our house before we bought it – Curly, Larry and Moe. We had to ask for a shower curtain and found out that the lampshades were missing as the workers had thrown them out and no chairs in the room because they had also broken them.

 

Nancy threw caution to the wind once the laundry was done and we went to La Posta for dinner. The same place we had gone a week before for lunch.

 

 

October 14, 2008

 

Had a late start. Did some shopping and went to the Stahmanns pecan farm store. They have the largest stand of pecan trees in the United States.

 

Got on I10 and headed west. We stopped in Willcox AZ and picked out an Indian flute for Joe. The owner of the company played all of the low C flutes in stock and selected the best one for us.

 

Before getting into Tucson we stopped at the Saguaro National Park and took the drive through the park and walked the ecology trail. It is amazing to see all these cacti. Fairly amazing to think of their height and capacity to survive in a harsh environment. And it is wonderful that we are preserving them on the growing edge of a large city.

 

Driving to our motel we passed by an air force base that is the “aircraft graveyard”  for the services. There were several miles of old planes in various states of disrepair and disassembly – jets and old WWII planes, cargo planes, fighters, tankers, etc.

 

Once in Tucson we discovered that they are rebuilding I10 and we could not exit for our motel and coming back the other way we could not exit either. So Nancy took over from the GPS and got us there by dead reckoning rather than satellite.